April 20, 2009 0 comments Articles & Reviews, By Jonathan Cristaldi

Jayer-Gilles 2004 Echézeaux

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It’s official: I’ve purchased my first case of wine! Not all at once, but in two parts. Part one was the Robert Foley wines, which provided an education in caring for glassware (see previous post) and part two arrived just a few days ago and included:

1 bottle of Jayer-Gilles Echezeaux du Dessus Grand Cru-2004
3 bottles of Vini Menhir N° 0 Negroamaro-2006
1 bottle of Woodhouse Darighe-2001
1 bottle of Tenuta di Trinoro le Cupole Toscana Rosso-2005

Damian, the wine director at Cabrini, told me not to drink the Jayer-Gilles until 2014, however I have reasoned out a fabulously reasonable excuse for drinking it now. To all those connoisseurs who feel the necessity to hold onto wine, listen up:

The year 2004 ran its cycle five years ago. This wine is five years old, therefore. Therefore, like a child, a wine of five will act similarly to a child of say 10, 11, or even 12 years of age. The child will not be driving or holding down a job at this stage. The child will certainly begin to ripen at age 10, however at age 5 the child is fairly ripe and saucy. And, you’ll often hear that a wine will “mellow with age” or will “soften with age” and I must ask, is a “mellow, soft” wine truly what the connoisseur is after? While all of this may seem utterly obtuse, and it is, I nevertheless plan to drink the wine and feel I’ve proven my point—whatever point that may or may not be.

[Suddenly, mad, like one who has just drunk of the elixir of truth]

I am nearly ravenous! Therefore a manifesto is in need of manifesting! What is the “wine connoisseur” and how shall he judge his wines?? Let us establish a radical system of rating wine; one we can all understand, all of us, and let us insure all our noses for a million dollars! Onward…

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